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Salvage vehicles for sale at Copart auctions

Browse, bid and buy salvage cars, trucks, SUVs, motorcycles and more at 40 to 60 percent below retail, direct from Copart auctions, with no dealer license required.

What is a salvage vehicle?

A salvage vehicle is one an insurance company has declared a total loss, usually after an accident, theft, flood, fire or hail, when the cost to repair it passes a set percentage of its value. The vehicle is issued a salvage title and sold at auction to recover the insurer's money. For a deeper breakdown of the terms and title brands, read our full definition of salvage cars.

Not every lot is badly damaged. Many are light hail, minor collision, theft recoveries or vehicles totaled on paperwork alone, so a salvage title is often the biggest discount in the entire car market. Before you bid, price your true all in cost, the winning bid plus every fee, on our fee calculator.

Every category of salvage vehicle

Copart sells far more than wrecked cars. Filter by type, damage and title in our inventory search to find exactly what you are after:

  • Cars and SUVs — sedans, hatchbacks, SUVs and crossovers, from light hail to rebuildable collision.
  • Trucks and vans — pickups, work vans and heavy duty trucks for personal use, hauling or resale.
  • Motorcycles and ATVs — street bikes, cruisers, dirt bikes and quads, often minor damage at deep discounts.
  • Boats and jet skis — powerboats, sailboats and personal watercraft, salvage and clean title alike.
  • RVs and campers — motorhomes, travel trailers and campers at a fraction of dealer prices.
  • Clean title vehicles — theft recoveries, lease returns and fleet cars with straightforward paperwork, see salvage vs clean titles.

Why people buy salvage vehicles

The appeal is simple: price. Insurers sell total losses fast, so bidding starts far below retail even for light damage. Buyers who can handle some repair work, or who hire it out, turn that gap into savings on a personal vehicle or margin on a resale. Our buying tips explain how to read the damage and avoid the mistakes that cost money.

Rebuilders repair and re title salvage cars, flippers buy low and resell, and some vehicles are worth more parted out than whole. Whatever your goal, run a VIN history report first to confirm the record, and see real lender options on our financing page since most banks will not finance a salvage title directly.

How it works

Three steps to your first salvage vehicle

Anyone can buy with a free account. No dealer license and no bidding limits.

1

Register free and set your budget

Create your account in about a minute and place a refundable security deposit, which sets your bidding power at ten times the amount on file. Register free to start.

2

Find and research your lot

Search by make, damage and location, study the photos and lot details, and run a VIN report before you commit. Price your all in cost on the fee calculator.

3

Bid, win and take delivery

Bid up to your maximum. When you win, pay by wire within three business days counting auction day, then collect the vehicle or book a shipping quote. Full walkthrough on how to buy.

Questions

Salvage vehicles: frequently asked questions

Salvage basics

A salvage vehicle is one an insurance company declared a total loss, usually after an accident, theft, flood or other damage, when repairs would cost more than a set percentage of its value. It gets a salvage title and is sold at auction. See our full definition of salvage cars.
Insurers want totaled vehicles off their books fast, so they sell in volume at auction rather than repairing anything. Every lot sells as is with no warranty, and the buyer takes on the repair work and the risk. Price reflects all of that, which is exactly where the opportunity sits for buyers who do their homework.
Not until it is repaired, inspected and re titled. A salvage title cannot be registered for the road. Once you repair it and it passes your state's inspection, the title becomes rebuilt and you can register, insure and drive it. Our salvage title guide explains the difference.
Everything from hail dents and minor collision to flood, fire and theft recovery. Some older vehicles are totaled on paperwork alone because even a small repair exceeded their value. The damage type is listed on each lot, and it is the single most important thing to read before bidding.

Bidding and buying

No. As a registered Copart broker we hold the licenses and bid on your behalf, so you can buy with a free account and no license. Register free to start.
Your total is the winning bid plus Copart and broker fees. A $3,000 win commonly lands around $4,200 out the door. Run your exact numbers on the fee calculator before you bid.
Yes, and you should. Every lot has photos, many include condition notes, and some have a video of the engine running, all for reference only rather than a guarantee. You can also run a VIN history report, view the vehicle in person with a Copart Basic membership, or order a professional inspection.
Your refundable security deposit sets your bidding power at ten times the amount on file, so the $600 minimum lets you bid up to $6,000. Add $100 for every extra $1,000 of bidding power you want.

After you win

By bank wire, in full, within three business days counting auction day. Bids are binding, so line up your funds before the auction rather than after.
Traditional banks rarely finance salvage titles, but specialty lenders and personal loans do. See real options on our financing page.
Collect it yourself with the release authorization or book a hauler through our transportation page. Many of our buyers export overseas; confirm your destination country's import rules for branded titles before you bid, not after.
There is real risk, mostly hidden damage and repair costs that outrun the discount. Prepared buyers manage it by reading the damage type, running a VIN report, pricing repairs conservatively and setting a hard maximum with the fee calculator. Our buying tips walk through the common mistakes.
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